Vassaras, near Sparti, Greece

For those readers used to hearing from us in blog, email or otherwise, you may have noticed that we have been conspicuously absent from e-communication. That is because we have been IN THE MIDDLE OF NOWHERE, Vassaras, Greece.  “Bear House” is a small two story building on the corner of two narrow cobblestone streets, between the church and the square.

The village of Vassaras is a windy 11 kilometers from the main road between Sparti and Tripoli. A small collection of houses, many of which are uninhabited most of the year.

There are 145 permanent residents, but it seems we only see the same small handful over and over again. To call it a quiet, sleepy village would be an understatement. A taverna, a cafe, a convenience store, all of which are open only sporadically (9-noon, 4:30-7, or maybe not.) At least seven churches, if not more, each seeming to serve its own function. There is the clock tower church, up on the hill which rings the time on every half hour.

Several smaller churches are strewn about in the vicinity, dedicated to specific saints which hold services only one day a year for that saint’s day. 

The church up the block from us is the main church, holding regular Sunday services, and clanging it’s bell with a fervor we have never before witnessed. Instead of chiming, “Come to church, time for church,” this bell clangs, “RUN! RUN FOR THE HILLS YOU CRAZY BASTARDS! SINNERS! REPENT! FIRE! OH MY GOOOOOOOOOODDDDDDDDD! BLARGHGHGHGHHGG!” Seriously. First at 7:30, then again at 8:00, 8:30 and 9:00. So, what did we do? Well, after the third time, we got up and went to church!

With the exception of Sunday morning, we’ve been sleeping in and generally relaxing. Walks to collect firewood break up the monotony of sitting in the sun, drinking coffee, reading books, and listening to our back catalog of NPR podcasts.

One day while collecting firewood we came across this goat herd:

God bless chainsaws. This hand-sawing is not easy work.

We had to haul the wood a long way from where we scavenged it and sawed it.

The shepherd, baffled that I would want to photograph him.

What a motley crew!

Sorry to tell you folks, but I have taken A LOT of pictures of goats. We'll have an entire Goat Slideshow when we get home. Yay!

Newsflash: We have arranged to stay in Greece until the New Year! Our hosts took us up on our offer to house-sit for them while they are away for Christmas. Very exciting because not only do we get to spend the holidays in a lovely hillside villa in Greece, we also get to extend our trip by a couple weeks at very little additional cost. Woo hoo!